Throughout jewelry history, the best high luxury jewels have embodied cultural and historical references, attitudes and emotions. In the 20th and 21st century, Stephen Webster’s carefully conceptualized collections have drawn inspiration from 19th century science literature, rock’n’roll; punk and his native British culture. (Note: his website is www.stephenwebster.com – If you are attending the COUTURE Las Vegas jewelry show this May 27 – June 1, you can find Stephen Webster’s booth at Mouton1.)
In their style, substance, and pioneering stone cuts and styles such as his proprietary “Crystal Haze” doublet, Webster’s jewels exemplify how design-driven, high luxury jewelry is comprised of far more than noble metals and powerfully beautiful, master-crafted gem materials.
For these and other reasons, studying the arc of Stephen Webster’s collections is rather like surveying the bejeweled contents of an artistic time capsule from the late 20th century and early 21st century.
Take for example Webster’s Lady Stardust collection from 2014, which is sold in Webster boutiques around the world and on various online haute luxe jewelry sites.
This zig-zag-themed suite of jewels in vibrant gradients of 18K white gold, colored gemstones, diamonds and pearls was inspired by singer David Bowie’s fictional character Ziggy Stardust, a science fiction pop star who self-destructed at the peak of his Fame.
Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust character debuted in 1972 via the concept album Ziggy Stardust and the Spiders from Mars. As Webster told Bergdorf Goodman when he introduced this collection at the fabled luxury department store, “David Bowie encapsulates androgyny, the world had never seen anything like his Ziggy Stardust character in 1972, and probably never will again.”
As a master jeweller and inspired jewelry designer with boutiques in London, Beverly Hills, Russia and elsewhere, Stephen Webster is one of a few leaders in the global high luxury jewelry world who possesses the artistry, technical skill and discipline to create the treasures that he designs. As with the one and only Ziggy Stardust, the world has never seen anything like Webster’s fine art-inflected, character-rich and emotionally evocative jewels. Let’s look at some of them now.
As Webster puts it, “The Lady Stardust bracelet is the piece from which the collection hangs. Using rubies, orange and yellow sapphires, with strong geometric shapes, the piece is feminine but not overtly so. Bracelets can have an androgynous quality, they’re not gender specific, like most jewelry elements.” (The bracelet is 18K white gold.)
Subtly shaded graduations of rubies, orange and yellow sapphires tell a chromatically rich story in these 18K gold earrings. While these hard-edged Lady Stardust earrings are somewhat reminiscent of Art Deco danglers, there’s also something timeless about their shapes and colors.
Elegant and edgy in design, this bold 18K white gold ring of rubies, orange and yellow sapphires is a classic that would look just as good with an evening gown as it would with everyday wear.
Super high luxury never looked so good
Singer, songwriter, artist David Bowie brought his space alien Ziggy Stardust character to life on Earth in 1972. Here is Bowie in all his zig zag, Ziggy Stardust glory.
Stephen Webster received honors from Queen Elizabeth II (an MBE, to be exact) for services to ethical jewelry and the British jewelry industry. These includes his efforts to source the gold he uses in his jewelry from environmentally sustainable and certified Fair Trade operations. Webster has also spearheaded a campaign to convince other British jewelers to source their gold from certified Fair Trade mines.
Like a comet from outer space, this Lady Stardust 18K white gold and diamond necklace dazzles. It’s like wearing a mini-constellation around your neck!
If a comet or asteroid crashed into Earth, would the pearl and diamonds in this Lady Stardust ring survive? Given the pearl is far more delicate material than diamonds, I’d vote for the diamonds to survive.
A wonderful story and writing from an amazing writer about one of the most talented cutting edge pushing the creative envelope designers of all time
I have always adored Steven and appreciated his unapologetic attitude and being a true designer,
an inspiration to me and how I view exceptional talent.
Multi layered and multi faceted in personality and craft
I am In total appreciation to both Kyle and Steven
Anthony Camargo