Here at Bijoux Review, we instantly recognize haute luxe jewelry when we see it, feel it; wear it.
That’s why we’re excited about the 90-piece debut collection from LJ Cross. Its bold yet sensuously soft Modernist aesthetic looks utterly fresh. At the same time, LJ Cross embodies classic and therefore ageless style.
Informally elegant, understatedly alluring and always confident, these jewels exert strong gravitational pull due to super-fine design, haute luxe materials and master craftsmanship. Most important, they transform your look, adorning you with authentic chic…because they are one-of-a-kind, handmade and highly refined.
November promises to be a banner month for LJ Cross: the New York-based; New York-made line opens its Manhattan flagship boutique 994 Madison Avenue at 77th Street on November 10th. November will also see LJ Cross debut at Saks Fifth Avenue stores in Beverly Hills, California, Bal Harbour, Florida and San Antonio, Texas. Prices in the line run from approximately $600 to about $80,000.
Standing strongly sensual with self-assured style in 14-karat rose gold, 18-karat white gold and platinum, the cross motif serves as a point of departure for the brand’s debut collection. Exhibit A: Naturally formed pearl crosses wrapped with 18-karat yellow gold and white diamonds: organically noble elegance!
These crosses are inspired interpretations of the ancient and powerful symbol, but it is the entire 90-piece LJ Cross narrative of proprietary designs; its beauty and versatility that makes the collection so intriguing to haute luxe jewelry lovers, collectors and luxury retailers like Saks Fifth Avenue.
In sensuous Modernist-influenced shapes, the Mosaic suite comprises 14-carat rose gold (set with fancy cut cognac diamonds).
The 18-karat white gold Cobblestone suite of rings, earring and crosses is scattered with scintillating diamonds in luxuriously random settings that look simultaneously ancient and avant-garde. This is that rare kind of jewelry that looks just as beautiful with a T-shirt as it does with an evening gown. Cobblestone pieces will make just about any old outfit POP and look instantly fresher.
We love the substantial; curvaceous Mosaic pieces. The Mosaic rings, bracelets and crosses glitter with an organic allure that merges antique chic with a sparkling 21st century sensibility. As with the Cobblestone suite, the Mosaic jewels are just as suitable for wearing to work as they are for replanting your herb garden, attending a gala event or glamming up your bathing suit. Diamonds at the beach: go for it!
LJ Cross’s choice of gem-like minerals and artistically innovative use of rutilated quartz, mystic quartz, garnet and peach moonstone is another key differentiator of the brand. LJ Cross‘s mineralogical connoisseurship is especially evident in its visually striking rutilated quartz pendants, which are set in white gold caps scattered with diamonds and hung from black plush silken cords.
The top sections of the quartz pendants are transparent, sleekly cut and smoothly polished, while the lower depths of the quartz enclose elegantly cross-hatched dramatic black lines deep inside the quartz. These intense black lines recall the purity of abstract expressionist art: edgy, hip, intriguing, spiritual. The lines are created by deposits of the mineral rutile, largely composed of titanium dioxide. Thus the designation “rutilated quartz.”
It’s also worth noting more informally elegant and instantly classic LJ Cross designs, including the dramatically understated sautoirs, which can be worn in one long strand, or looped a few times around the neck. These sautoirs come in faceted black diamond bead versions, strands of gorgeous garnets and great lengths of mystic quartz faceted beads, which with their multi-hued tones, impart a quietly hip vibe.
Any one of these can be teamed with either the tiny, round peach moonstone and rose gold link chain, the champagne diamond and white gold chain or the pure platinum link chain. Comprised of fine yet strongly shaped links, this is the hippest platinum jewelry since Elsa Peretti’s platinum diamonds by the yard necklace debuted decades ago.
Indeed, the design IQ, high quality gemstones, inviting tactility, stylistic coherence and magnetic visual appeal of LJ Cross invite comparison to Elsa Peretti’s jewels. These were introduced at Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and remain as fiercely chic (and strong selling) as ever.
Like Peretti’s jewelry, LJ Cross designs mesh perfectly with the needs and aspirations of style-savvy women. As with Peretti’s, LJ Cross designs suit women of all ages; those with multiple work and personal responsibilities whose leisure hours run fast and frenetic.
The LJ Cross aesthetic and brand, however, differ markedly from Peretti’s, beginning with the fact that there are two eminent designers behind it.
LJ Cross is the brainchild of renowned New York interior designer Lisa Jackson, whose credits include projects for fashion designers Vera Wang and Tory Burch, actress Renee Zellwegger; actor/philanthropist Michael J. Fox plus the Blackstone Group.
Gifted in many design disciplines, Jackson has created exclusive ranges of furniture and tabletop offerings for Lisa Jackson Ltd. Her background also includes ownership of Lucca & Co. www.luccany.com There, she assumed roles as CEO and designer, creating a signature line of made-to-measure furniture. For the Lucca & Co. showroom, Jackson designed her first ever fine jewelry. Her capsule collection of diamond accessories, including rings and bracelets, were all made in India and sold out of the showroom.
A petite blonde with a warm smile, Jackson dresses in Marni, holds an M.B.A. from New York University’s Stern School of Business and has a brilliant design partner in Ward Kelvin www.wardkelvin.com While Kelvin’s eponymous Chinoiserie-styled fine jewelry line sold sensationally at Bergdorf Goodman for several years, he also designed important jewels at Tiffany & Co. during John Loring’s tenure and has served as a consulting designer for David Yurman.
On a hot August night in New York, Lisa Jackson, Ward Kelvin and I met at Casa Lever, the courtyard café at Lever House, the landmark International Style-skyscraper. Although Jackson wears relatively little jewelry, in her ears, diamond studs blaze away, complementing her blonde hair and alabaster complexion. The LJ Cross pieces that Jackson wears, however, make an informally elegant and unforgettable impact. The evening we met, Jackson wore an LJ Cross platinum sautoir of elegant links with a garnet sautoir over a black silk blouse and black cropped silk pants. The sole ornament on her hands was a white gold LJ Cross ring. On her wrist, an exquisite Franck Muller watch kept track of time. (She collects Muller watches.)
Discussing the brand’s genesis, Jackson explained that inspiration for LJ Cross (and the company name) grew out of the audacious style of her late brother, Steven Calicchio. “My brother dressed with great masculine flair,” Jackson recalled with a smile. “Steven always wore multiple crosses at different lengths that looked stylish and chic,” Jackson says.
“While our family is not particularly devout,” Jackson continues, “I like crosses because they symbolize and suggest peace on earth, harmony and hope.”
While she mourned her brother, Jackson found herself comforted by wearing his crosses. She haunted flea markets and bought crosses made by unknown artisans as well as by various fashion designers for runway and ready-to-wear collections.
Although she amassed numerous colorful and intriguing crosses, “These were all costume pieces,” Jackson says. “I kept looking for fine jewelry crosses but didn’t see any that I liked very much.” The idea of designing a fine jewelry line that incorporated crosses along with other motifs percolated in her mind for several years while she ran Lucca & Co. and worked at her family’s shipping business. When she and Kelvin met at a party in 2013, she shared her concept with him. They appreciated each other’s design sensibilities and began working together shortly afterward. All of the first collection was produced in New York.
“I feel fortunate and excited to have realized this collection with Ward,” Jackson says. And so she should. With LJ Cross, Jackson and Kelvin have created new haute luxe jewelry styles and statements that are bold, versatile and artfully crafted with the highest production values. As the cross pieces are unisex, LJ Cross adornments are suitable for anyone with a taste for low-key elegance. Finally, by paying homage to the late Steven Calicchio’s spirit and style, LJ Cross has set in stone a new narrative enlivening the history of high jewelry.
Bijoux Review Rating: on a scale of one to five stars
Design/Aesthetic: **** 1/2 First-rate design, but if there had been just two more bracelets in this collection, we would have given it five stars.
Choice of Materials/Use of Materials: ***** Five stars all the way! The design team of LJ Cross understands how to select and maximize fine gem materials like master jewelers.
Workmanship/Craftsmanship: ***** Gorgeous and ever more gorgeous. Five stars for flawless craftsmanship.
Relative rarity/resale value: **** Every piece is one-of-a-kind, beautifully crafted of superb materials. Four stars because the brand has just made its debut…so resale value is a non-issue.